Viola Milano Summer Essentials…
Shirt: Af Klerkcer Shoes: Santoni Fragrance: Creed Pocket Square: P.Johnson Swim trunks: Vilebrequin Sunglasses: Bob Sdrunk Bracelets: Viola Milano Hat: Panama
On the street…
Who are you?
Christian Kimber: British designer, living in Melbourne, Australia.
What is your background in the clothing industry and how did you come up with the idea to start Kimber Footwear?
In London I was working across a few different roles in the menswear world, from retail and styling, to PR and production. I started off interning anywhere I could. Following a stint on Savile Row I eventually ended up at a footwear store on Clifford Street. It was there I developed my understanding of footwear production which inspired me to start night school at the London College of Fashion. I had noticed there was a gap in the market - in terms of a good quality mens shoe at a great value price - and set about building the business. I moved to Melbourne a couple of years ago and felt it was the perfect place to launch the brand. I started with a chukka boot and a tassel loafer, both rather versatile, and casual enough to be embraced by the more laid back Australian man. I have more styles in the works; a penny loafer next followed by some sneakers. The reception has been wonderful so far and I’m really excited about the year to come.
Where are your shoes made, and what materials and techniques are used?
My first collection are made in the south of Spain, with Goodyear welted soles, Spanish suedes and a soft insoles to make them feel like sneakers.
What do you think sets Kimber Footwear apart from other makers?
My shoes are designed to be worn both casually and more formally, in versatile styles produced with classic construction techniques. The colours and attention to detail make them unique.
How would you describe your own style?
I wake up every morning and decide what my style will be that day, mostly based on my mood. I’m very much a fan of a younger generation, or new school of classic menswear. I like to mix modern pieces with classic tailoring. Mostly I live in a double-breasted jacket, shirt or polo, high waited trousers or chinos or denim, a knit tie and loafers.
What is your earliest memory related to menswear and style?
Sitting in my father’s dressing room before he went to work each morning when I was very young. He only ever wears classic horse-bit loafers with his tailoring. I remember them all lined up on a rack, all the same style but in different leathers. This really stayed with me. He also used to give me his cashmere double-breasted coat to hang up and brush when he came in the door. From a very young child I was very specific about everything I wore, a weirdo.
What inspires you / How do you find inspiration?
At the moment I find a lot of my friends very inspiring; they all have their own unique understanding of dressing. Most of the industry names I take inspiration from these days are Italian. I find Italians are more relaxed and romantic, compared to the British, who are much more structured in both, and not as afraid of colour.
I look at a lot of old photos. I recently came across some images of the Duke of Winsor gardening in 1955 with Wallis in their house in France. Edward wore flannel trousers and a tie when he is fixing his roses. In another shot he had the smaller blade of this tie tucked into his trousers, just so ahead of his time. I just find myself thinking of all the shoes he might own. I think you need to take elements from the past, but try to create something new from this foundation. Also moving to Melbourne from London, I am very taken with the colours of the Australian outback, I have become obsessed rich burnt orange.
If you had to name one person that influenced on your style, who would that be?
Your “one and the most important advise” for men who want to be well dressed?
First of all, it’s not about spending and nothing to do with rules. The advice I would give is to build a wardrobe over time and discover what works for you. Add a splash of colour when you can. Find a decent tailor and someone who understand footwear and chat with them about what you need. More often than not people who work in this industry as so passionate they would love to talk to you for hours.
At the end of the day, take enjoyment from it. Put something on and don’t spend the day worrying about it. Who cares really, girls are more important.
Welcome to Dg6 Group Mr. Sentiero…
Tailored suits, spread collars and seven fold ties are all very well, even fantastic, but it is when it comes to shoes you separate the wheat from the chaff. A nice pair of quality shoes will lift an outfit more than any other single investment in your wardrobe and when taken well care of, they will last you a lifetime.
It is hardly a secret that we at the DG6 Group have a thing for small manufacturers that often do not have more than a single, small workshop. We simply find the passion and energy that craftsmen put into their work so inspiring, and we like to share it with you.
One of our favourite artisans is Riccardo Bestetti, a bespoke shoemaker based out of Vigevano in the north of Italy. Riccardo is by many considered to be one of the top shoemakers in Italy, and perhaps even one of the best in the world. The name of Riccardo’s small business is Freccia Bestetti, Freccia is Italian for arrow and you can clearly see the name reflected in much of Riccardo’s creations. His shoes are often characterised by an aggressive shape, often compared to that of many Italian sports cars. In addition to sleek italian lasts, Bestetti is a true artist when it comes to colouring and creating a patina. Just have a close look at his shoes and you will understand exactly what we mean.
Last year Freccia Bestetti launched a RTW collection, bringing the opportunity to own a pair of Bestettis to us who simply cannot pay the price of bespoke. The RTW shoes start at 600€ and prices go up to 1500€ for a pair from the top Novecento line, which is made to the same standard as bespoke. Riccardo makes all RTW shoes when an order is placed, this enables you to easily make changes to the design for an additional cost. The models presented here are just a selection of all the models Riccardo offers, and bear in mind that all leathers are available for each model as well.
We placed an order with Riccardo very recently, and are eagerly awaiting the result. Riccardo was most helpful during the entire ordering process, and will make every effort to meet your needs an wishes. On top of being very professional, Riccardo is a wonderfully polite and humble man, which adds to the overall great impression we have of Riccardo and his products. Be sure to stay tuned for an in depth review of our very first pair of Bestettis and an interview with the maestro behind it all.
If you too want to have a pair of some of the most beautiful shoes ever created, contact Riccardo at email@example.com. You won’t regret it.
Be sure to have a look at Freccia Bestetti’s webpage and the tumblr as well for some more Bestetti goodness.
The DG6 Group
Artu Napoli Spring/Summer 2013
Mr.나승윤, Creative Director at Sartoria Spolverino, Seoul - Hong Kong…
Wonderful shoes from Andy Tom…
Some customers wearing Viola Milano bracelets….
Jacket: Eleventy Trousers: Suitsupply Shirt: Finamore Pocket Square: Roda
Shoes: Andy Tom
A few words with Gianni Cerutti of Passaggio Cravatte
1. Who are you?
Gianni Cerutti , a young man with an eternal love of the bespoke tie and vintage fabrics. Gianni Cerutti is close to 26 years old and lives in Robbio, an hour’s drive from Milan Malpensa Airport. And in Robbio we have our small studio, directly in our house. I love to bring my family, my friends and my customers there.
2. What is your background in the clothing industry and how did you come up with the idea to start Passagio Cravatte?
Passaggio Cravatte came to be from passion and discontent of what was previously offered. Passion because I have always loved quality ties, and dissatisfaction because I saw the same old designs and colors. I could never find the tie I dreamed of. Then - thanks to my partne Marta Passaggio, we in 2010 created Passaggio Cravatte. I had the idea for many years before actually starting the company, as early as twelve years old I would call tie makers and ask them to send me small pieces of silk. I just made sure to hide all those calls from my parents!
3. Where are your ties made, and what materials and techniques are used?
Our ties are made in Italy by our seamstresses, who were already working in the best tailors of Naples. In fact they still work in their homes as they did more than a century ago. We have no machines because everything is handmade. The ties are made entirely by hand according to the old Neapolitan tradtion, you won’t find a single machine made stitch in any Passagio Cravatte product.
4. What do you think sets Passagio Cravatte apart from other makers?
I primarily think there are four things that set us apart from other makers. Firstly, we have no readymade products at all, it’s all bespoke and made to order. We use genuine vintage silks, that are very limited. At the most, we can make about 4 ties from some of these fabrics, so we really offer something very unique. We also pride ourselves in taking care of our customers, hosting them at fine hotels in Milan or even at our house. But we also offer ordering via email, for those who can’t travel. This is essential for our business, since we don’t have any retail locations.
5. What would you say is typical for a Passagio Cravatte customer?
Our clients are individuals who define themselves with great personal style. They are dandy-elegant. People who like to dress that, with elegance, arenoticed and appreciated. Most of our clients are experienced and know what they want, and they are lovers of the artisanal aspect of a handmade tie. But most of all they all seem to gentlemen on the inside as well. In fact, I find my clients to be some of the nicest people I have had the pleasure of meeting.
6. How would you describe your own style?
I would call my style rather dandy-like. Classically elegant but in a fun way. I like to experiment with colours, patterns and details to express my inner self. I cannot stand the idea of just wearing blue suits, with white shirts and blue ties.
7. Where do you find inspiration? If you could name one person who has had the most influence on your style, who would that be?
I often find inspiration in what our grandparents wore, they had a lot more colour in their outfits than we find today. Besides daring to wear more colours, I am also very inspired by the tailored look of that era of fashion. Every man had a tailor, and the streets were like a catwalk 365 days of the year. Just look at old magazines and movies, and you see how elegant they were!
8. What is your number one advice for men who want to dress better?
The best advice I can give is to be on the outside who you are on the inside. In other words, true elegance is to be yourself. It takes time to develop your own personal style, but you need to make sure to enjoy yourself along the way. Style should always be fun, and not an obligation.
Tailor: Mimmo Pirozzi of Via Chiaia 197. I love the fact that he is the only tailor in Naples who make jackets exactly as they were made in the late 1800’s.
Shoemaker: I only wear shoes by Riccardo Bestetti, who I find to be the most talented shoemaker in the world. A real Italian talent.
City for shopping: I really couldn’t specify a best city for shopping. I only wear bespoke products, since ready to wear can never reflect my personality and my style in the same way. I have taste, my dreams and my ideas. These are things you can never find in a store.